ok im new here been buildin a 1975 chevy 1/2 ton for the past 2 years and im a fan of tgw and (the got mud crew) chucks trucks, boyce equipment,ect ect ect
army green with big star on the doors and hood
350 with 305 heads and 505 isky racing cam
traded for 2.5 ton gmc axles(the ones with eyes on the end)
added 7'' drop crossmember 52'' spring swap with 4'' springs added to the pack
6'' perches
7'' perches rear and home made shakle flip
2'' block to re angle axle location (so far 25'' lift) is it enough?
sm465 was good same as 205 added crossmember and put gmc 2.5 ton tranfer custom drive lines
52'' tires (need custom wheels)
sh*t brakes wont work?
need steering go to junkyard get combine (newhollond) orbitall and cylinder(not yet installed)
himn joints to much money go get truck tie rod ends and mount?
and mount for traction bars or link, am i screwing up (please tell me)
sounds like a cool rig! needs pics!
Here some pic, do you think the truck tie rods will work or are they gunna break?
what am i forgeting? what do i need?
Im thinking tailgate with p.o.w air brushed into it and names in the background of it.
what about a good name? im thinking daily driver
Well need info?
is it gunna hold up?
are truck tie rod ends strong enough?
will the axles hold up to 500hp or clutch dumpin?
will the axles hold up to 53'' tires?
how about pics of orbitals set up and ram setups?
give me some ideas,
IT NEEDS A NAME
I need a good bumper idea, what you got on your mind.
I think rear needs to move up and down (but strong) for sled pulls
and not get in the way when i want to car crush or mud
Front needs somthin like baja flip down into a skid plate but law says it must be one no aditional added bumper.
If you got a better idea post it I wana here them?
what no response ttttttttt
on 2.5 ton gm axles you will prolly break the pinion off.. just like dana 60 rear axles...
have you guy ran into any problems running gmc 2.5 ton axles. Do think its wise to weld the rear up or just try to find a locker, mark boyce (my dads friend) has one rebuildable?
good looking truck! Sargent Slaughter would be a cool name for it
hey i like that name, not bad or to goofy.
Quote from: Axlejack on October 04, 2010, 06:45:33 AM
good looking truck! Sargent Slaughter would be a cool name for it
X2
i have the 2.5 gmc in the front of my bogger so far so good with 63" tall tractor tires
mostly the rear 2.5 gms break the pinion
so im gunna have axle rap, would you think the semi truck tie rod ends would hold to that kind of touqe? I built my rear springs so they are hard but still flex hard (i bounce on the bumper and the rear only moves mabe a 1''
(1)Hard springs are good right?(with tall perches)
(2) so weld differential(front or rear) ?????
wels rear not front... steering will be harded when u weld up front unless what kind of steering set up u have?
from one star on the door camo truck owner to another I love the truck,,,,,,but one thing did catch my eye your hitch/tow points could use a lil reinforce'n maybe there something i dont see..... whats everyone else think ??? as big n bad as it is you want something crazy tuff ....just my two cents dont hate me lol ....n pm me my kids boyfriends neibor makes wheels can see if he might do a set for you .....Woody
ill be putting full hyro steer capt j, and i heard that if you weld the rears then the axle shafts break easy(but if not then only 2 tires will turn in the mud hole) Is this just in the army trucks and farm trucks or?
hey Woody im interested in what if he can do, 20''x15 or 20''x12 what do you think?
and im not but hurt that is why were all here to help. So I was thinking of boxing the frame but weld the crossmembers or bolt? both? We bolt them when we build trucks for farmers.
So i need to tie it into my frame so it dont rip out when pulled by multiple trucks front and back, my dad keeps wanting me to strait frame it and i keep telling him it can be strengthend with subframe tell me ur input?
Ok it got the name you guys gave it, and what is the strongest place to mount the cylinder (ram) I want to never worry about the hub,tie rod ect getting broken becouse of undo stress.
do i put it on the arm that goes to the top of the hub or just to the tie rod, we even considered mounting it in anouther hole just next to the tie rod end but would that weeken it or not?
and Iv got to thank you all for your help and input. ........
ok boxed frame fixed steering so i can move the truck around and test it, went into the pond behind the shop and went over some hills under power twisting it and getting on it and no broken parts. my dad said its like watchin a turtle slow as heck, 4 low and granny with 617 gears, were thinkin of adding shims to the rear to stiffin it up till i get a locker, Im so proud it dint twist or bust! it dint do so good under power in powdery dirt 2 wheels spin, suspention dosent give much pretty hard ride its no caddy. im thinken disk wheels brakes and calipers, what do you think?
what entails on gmc axles?
GotMud?
lookin good do you have any body parts off of the military truck im lookin for a hood ????? any pics of how ya mounted yer hydraulic cylinder for the steering????
we deal in 5 ton military mostly (but can get whatever you need)
we have 5ton cab fenders just about anything do you want a driver we have a 5 ton military truck complet runs and drives, do you want 10 ton military we can get that to, tires 36x16.5 non directionals 9.00 or 11.00x20s pretty much anything you want military we can get. pm me and ill give you the phone #
mine is a 1940 506 chevy pretty early version with a closed cab i think the hoods were the same till mid 40s but not shure
we dont have anything that old have you called boyce equipment he should have something or know where to get it!
Name it the lopsided star......j/k.....sgt slaughter is cool
ya ya ya do you guys know how hard it is to draw a perfect star its easyer to draw the triangles then put them together but any ways its hard to make it look good!
so you guys dont no what works for brakes?
or what about the drums?
master cylinder not enough volume so how do i keep the booster and run a bigger master cylinder?
how come everyone dose all this but never takes pics.
nice truck
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on October 27, 2010, 03:08:18 AM
so you guys dont no what works for brakes?
or what about the drums?
master cylinder not enough volume so how do i keep the booster and run a bigger master cylinder?
how come everyone dose all this but never takes pics.
i put my brake on the t case where the pto brake drum was one rotor and caliper should be ok unless both d shafts are blown out i used the caliper bracket of a 10 bolt front and some flat and angle iron to make a bracket to hold it to the case and frame you could probly use a hydro boost system on the brakes and get rid of the vacume booster if yer motor dosent make enuff vacum
but hows that work the hydro booster system, power steering powers the booster how ?I dont understand it. how dose the hydro booster system make more than the vacume?
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on October 31, 2010, 07:34:05 PM
but hows that work the hydro booster system, power steering powers the booster how ?I dont understand it. how dose the hydro booster system make more than the vacume?
it uses hydraulic press made by a pump to actuate the brakes the system was used on pickups and some cars in the 80 s all chevy trucks that had a deisel motor
ok its coming along, but got woke up saturday moring with my cell going 99mph non stop. some asshole put my truck on craigslist for $1000and $50and a pack of marbs for my tires. they list it as23'' lift rockwells for $1000, Im so god damb mad, just pisses ya off but got more than 25 calls and more than 25 texts, way more!
For brakes, may I suggest pinion brakes. This way even if the drive shaft is gone you can still stop, only thing to keep in mind is with open axles the brakes will pull to one side or the other. Suggest ya weld the rear,least then ya get 3 wheels going in the mud also. 53" tires especially millitary's should not take out your axles. Running two calipers should not need anything extra for vacuum, unless your engine doesn't create much. If not much vacuum availible,you could switch to an old chevy master cylinder without a booster.
itll pull to one side why? the spider gears? how do monster trucks not pull to the side?
Quote from: MudForceOne on November 10, 2010, 01:09:17 AM
For brakes, may I suggest pinion brakes. This way even if the drive shaft is gone you can still stop, only thing to keep in mind is with open axles the brakes will pull to one side or the other. Suggest ya weld the rear,least then ya get 3 wheels going in the mud also. 53" tires especially millitary's should not take out your axles. Running two calipers should not need anything extra for vacuum, unless your engine doesn't create much. If not much vacuum availible,you could switch to an old chevy master cylinder without a booster.
where can i get the drive flanges to replace the yolks mine have a regular u joint and strap bolts everywhere ive asked the parts guys look like a deer in headlights i used a master of a buick roadmaster with out a booster and had to make a pedal assembly that came of a 71 truck but its unproven as of yet
call BOYCE EQUIPMENT
@ 1800 748 4269
he has them and will ship them to your door
your average driveline guy should be able to get them but there is a few sizes so i would just call mark boyce he has them on the top of his head, or look through your driveline guys book take a messurment and order.
ok going to look at some monster truck tires(that is how there listed for sale) I hope to be coming home with them!
well there awsome but only 2 67x34.00-25 firestone flotation 23` what do you think i gotta go get them les schwab said there 5000 new ouch, buddy of mine has 8 700-26.5 flotation tires off of a 4x4 spreader but there not to tall they would give me the monster truck look. im kind of likin the 67'' tires more, iv even got the hookup on 66'' monter truck tires what do you think
ok havent done much to sgt slaughter snowing alot but mowed down some snow piles :) need to get some time and start disk brake kit any one no what parts it takes?
what size tires do monster trucks run? 66s or are they cut down to 66s or what, what size wheels would they take? and how wide?
I drive my truck on the road all the time. No problems at all. But as far as the monster truck stuff, check out the Reckless Drivin' project.
Ok buddy stopped by and told me years ago he parted out several combines, (so you all know where im going with this)
he offered me 4 23.1-26 combine tires (diamond cut pattern) Im wondering with a little work if i cant make them a shallow v tread and modify them any i can for working in both conditions of floating and traction?
Another thing is would i have the wheel speed for this big of tire?
remember i do have high and low with 3 speed and granny gear, (for a hop out and walk by it slow)
but even with 300 to 400 hp is it gunna be enughf for mudding and pulling people out. or should i just plan on saving them for the 5 ton project or a ride truck, or????? there alot of money so it would be nice to have them.
GIVE ME YOUR INPUT........
That's a big tire...how tall r they?
66"s tall... 26"wide ( i think) hs anyone tryed it or ??????
1 thing to keep in mind about mud tires.. narrow is better( for the dig to the bottom heavy trucks)..... i ran 53" xzl's on mine without any problems, then switched to 53" R2's.....the width and weight of the 66 tires in mud will end up bending your center steering link....if you use a regular dual or singal bowl master cylinder from a chevy take out your booster, that will give you a good pedal with lots of braking power.. i have a single bowl on mine from a 66 chevy truck.. works great..
Quote from: chainsaw on January 15, 2011, 12:27:54 PM
1 thing to keep in mind about mud tires.. narrow is better( for the dig to the bottom heavy trucks)..... i ran 53" xzl's on mine without any problems, then switched to 53" R2's.....the width and weight of the 66 tires in mud will end up bending your center steering link....if you use a regular dual or singal bowl master cylinder from a chevy take out your booster, that will give you a good pedal with lots of braking power.. i have a single bowl on mine from a 66 chevy truck.. works great..
different tires work different in different types of mud, for example tall skinny tires work best with a hard bottom, wide tires work better in the soupy stuff(flotation) and as for the stearing go twith hydrolic stearing and beef up your tie rod by making one with 1/4 inch wall tubing with heavy duty hymsjoints on the ends
i agree with ya on the tires.. but hes building from what it sounds like to be a fairly good sized and heavy truck... while the power he is making respectable, im not too sure if he can get the wheel speed needed to stay on top...I.M.O.... can ya post more pics of the truck man
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on January 14, 2011, 03:14:41 AM
66"s tall... 26"wide ( i think) hs anyone tryed it or ??????
mud force 1 has a set... with the 1/4 angle iron welded to the center link he bent it with out much effort, but he is alot heavier judging from the specs
so will the xzls do good in sandy mud? thats why im thinking wide wheels to get some floation out of them, and if the 66'' tires are gunna start braking stuff then ill wait to put them on the 5 tons when i build it. can they look and hook good with cutting them like tractors. they will only have like 1'' nubs is that gunna be good.
Ok so we went out to the shop, and wanted to record the truck a little, batterys died on the camera, so we used the phone crappy pics but in between, I hit the old gravel pile(3 to 4 foot mound), and its usually very soft but the ground was still frozen a bit ran my crossmember into it and then tires hit, The truck had 3 feet of air under the tires just like a monster truck.
I just lerned this yesterday night, (my 3.5 year old son was trying to tell me) the wife and neighbor told me some time later, they thought i had it planed so know one of my roll around tires is no longer a roll around, it sits flat, but im vary glad it held up to the un needed stress, like the tire dint. if they would fit on here id show you guys a vidio
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on January 16, 2011, 07:38:49 AM
so will the xzls do good in sandy mud? thats why im thinking wide wheels to get some floation out of them, and if the 66'' tires are gunna start braking stuff then ill wait to put them on the 5 tons when i build it. can they look and hook good with cutting them like tractors. they will only have like 1'' nubs is that gunna be good.
the xzl was designed to be good in almost any terrain. They worked good for me in all types of mud.. but they are heavy.. if you want tractor tires. i would just suggest getting some instead of trying to cut the xzl's..... it does help they out.. by cutting them. but there is still alot of weight to spin..
im glad yur truck held up to the fyling test..
iv herd that circle pivit tires are light wight and work pretty well but like you said i might not get the wheel speed to clean tires? So dose that mean i need more power ;)
ill just have to try the militarys and see if they do the trick,and mabe run some wider wheels. for max flotation.
In first (not grandma) i can get to about 20 to 25 in high range. is that about right for my setup/ becouse its only gunna go faster with 53'' xzls. but thats with it reved out pretty good,to.
how much will mixing tire sizes bind up the 4x4 can a person perhaps run 2 rear (for instance) 9.00-20 front and 2 11.00-20 rear? anyone have any ideas
you will notice some bind not good on the t-case u will have to stagger your gears
thats a bad rig right there, gotta love those classic chevys put up in the air.
gotta new pull rig comin well new to me, with a pumped 454 lowered a bit its kind cool have to get pics and what kind of milage can i expect out of a 1980 crew cab 2wd auto
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on February 28, 2011, 01:07:43 AM
gotta new pull rig comin well new to me, with a pumped 454 lowered a bit its kind cool have to get pics and what kind of milage can i expect out of a 1980 crew cab 2wd auto
you can expect about 8 to 10 mpg outta thaa truck
thanks
oh man have you guys seen a cammed 454 dually smokem and its posi, wow itll lay 20-to-40 feet with out effort ha its cool, headers 3'' duals with crossover and flowmasters sounds mean, and iv got guys with power strokes always trying to race me, ha and haul the hole family to. but wiring is all screwed up gotta fix it more. ill get pics on here soon. Im thinking or sargent slaughter logo on it so itll go with the truck. would that be cool or dumb?
Quote from: cnoswalt78 on March 18, 2011, 05:43:46 AM
oh man have you guys seen a cammed 454 dually smokem and its posi, wow itll lay 20-to-40 feet with out effort ha its cool, headers 3'' duals with crossover and flowmasters sounds mean, and iv got guys with power strokes always trying to race me, ha and haul the hole family to. but wiring is all screwed up gotta fix it more. ill get pics on here soon. Im thinking or sargent slaughter logo on it so itll go with the truck. would that be cool or dumb?
ya arnt gunna be able to haul much with it if ya burn the tires and tranny out screwin around J M O
oh ya my old 74 dually would smoke em half way thru 2 nd gear i learned real quick how expensive tires were then carrier bearings then u joints then trans and flywheels wrecked a real nice truck now i need a tow rig
was just rattlin yer cage ;D ;D ;D
Ok sargent slaughter has new paint, an exact copy, going to rip off the drum brakes , when i get a chance. currently starting on the wheels. then brakes, exhaust, thinking 3.5'' down flow no muffs 4 feet long, or will it be to loud. also got 3'' in 2-3''out modded flowmasters that would work.
Im just wanting the exhaust to blow throu the mud, that looks cool!
also thinking headers going out the fenders and up,(it would have to be easly removeable) so i can install the muff exhaust
nice truck bud
how wide can a 1600x20 tire fit (how wide a wheel) ?
I would try to look it up but cant find any info on this.
tire shops say min 10" but ive seen them on 8" wheels, tire shop says 12 to 14'' wheel is best but what about wider?
is there any problem with to wide? like 16'' wide or 18'' wide?
OK...... IDEA..... why cant i take 2 wheels and bolt them together with the lugs as a split rim and forget the lock ring a simple 2''wide chunk of 20'' pipe to fill the gap and presto easy to dismount wheel? BUT WOULD IT WORK?
ummmmmmm, will it work or dont understand?