It is fine for a wile at idel then seems to miss.
Runs like p00 well driving on the free way. Has a miss and bad hesitation and surges well in drive sitting at a stop.
Also get a vibration from any were from 65-75 that comes and goes.
Now I got hit a few weeks ago and have re done the whole DS of the axle. New Brakes, Drum, Backing plate. Also just did a tune up on it. I had a fuel filter over the summer and a bunch of other stuff as well.
Also It did not start doing this till after I fixed the rear axle and had it sitting in my garage for a week well I work on it.
I am almost tempted to just rebuild a motor put on in this and be done with it. but then I will have way to much money into it and I am already in over my head in the f*****g pile of s***
I just getting pissed off because every time I fix something on this truck a few or to later something else is f****d up on it
so what do the injector flow patterns look like?
and that thing sounds like my rigs hahahaha its a love hate relationship love to hate it, but gota love her.
ya have someone scan it?
Sounds like you got some intermittent things goin on, need to scan it for starters to eliminate the guess work. Probably got several small things goin on, no big deal. Dont get mad, its just a hunk of metal and you have control over it. Everything has to work together for it to do like its supposed to. Idk if itll shift if the wires aint plugged in or whatever, but Id sure look at the connectors on the trans, paying real close attention to the pins and holes.. Could you have lost a wheel weight or driveshaft weight, or bent the driveshaft? Surging at the stoplight? Can you be real specific about the conditions that seem to bring this one on? ;D
Its OBD 1 I dont know a single person that has a REAL code reader for an OBD 1. I have the metal pin for allowing the light to flash but that does not give me anything besides a 12 witch is normal operation code
The SES light is not on.
Only does after it been running for bit. I can descibe it. I just pisses me One more reason I Love Carbs over this FI stuff.
EGR valve or the EGR control silenoid would do that...
worn distributor gear?
Quote from: lilred on March 03, 2011, 02:42:24 AM
EGR valve or the EGR control silenoid would do that...
Thats what I was thinking...the vibration is probably something totally different, could be anything from a cracked flywheel, ujoint, mud in your tire ==roll
is it worse warm than cold? if it is i would lean toward egr too. dose it have a free flowing exhaust? in the 95 tbi motor they switched to a positive presure style egr from the negative presure and they will act funny with exhaust system's. try unhooking the vaccum line to it and plugging it and seeing what it dose. also maybe a vaccum leak?
Last time it ran crappy i had him put a new temp sensor on it and it cleared it right up. i wouldnt doubt the EGR doing it. Hes been saying that when its in gear its got what sounds like an exhaust leak or tick or something... so i'm thinking thats a cracked flexplate or possibly loose torque converter.. ???
Quote from: Eroq on March 03, 2011, 02:49:58 PM
Last time it ran crappy i had him put a new temp sensor on it and it cleared it right up. i wouldnt doubt the EGR doing it. Hes been saying that when its in gear its got what sounds like an exhaust leak or tick or something... so i'm thinking thats a cracked flexplate or possibly loose torque converter.. ???
Cracked flywheels are a common problem on the old TBI Chevy's...so is mud in the tires, will throw them off balance ==roll
Egr is also a common problem! If it is OBD1 I would just do away with it and block it off with a restricter plate...I did that to my Suburban and it solved all kinds of issues and cost nothing because I made the plate at work.
sounds like EGR to me too. my 94 TBI would run like p00, stall when decelerating, and surge when cruising. found out diaphragm in EGR was torn.
I just grind the tip off the egr and put a thick piece of gasket paper on the manifold coverin the entire hole, a little silicone, plug the vacuum line. My 90 GMC used to act goofy all the time but that cleared it up for the most part.. ;D
I will check the EGR on it. I am just sick of the fact that I fix one thing and then something else comes up. I know I have to go a rear main seal on it as it leaks and will leave a silver dollar spot of oil on the ground after is been running and then sits over night.
u joint could be for the vibration. egr or the throttle body could need a rebuild too
I think it's the dizzy gear. These motors have a problem getting the correct amount of oil to the rear of the block, all the vortecs in this age did. I found this out after doing massive research on why the 2000 s10 I bought(4.3 2wd) just WOULD NOT run perfect. Long story short after about 400 bucks to get it running again, I read up on the dizzy gear. Well it ran before but had intermittent problems like you are describing. Replaced the dizzy and BOOM, it ran almost perfect but every once in a while the check engine light would go on. Then I plugged the EGR valve with a quarter and some silicon. BOOM. Never had check engine light on for the 5,000 miles I put on it after that. So hopefully I've helped you out a little. After all the 4.3 is just a 5.7 with two cylinders cut off.
Quote from: mrcompton on March 03, 2011, 07:50:42 PM
I think it's the dizzy gear. These motors have a problem getting the correct amount of oil to the rear of the block, all the vortecs in this age did. I found this out after doing massive research on why the 2000 s10 I bought(4.3 2wd) just WOULD NOT run perfect. Long story short after about 400 bucks to get it running again, I read up on the dizzy gear. Well it ran before but had intermittent problems like you are describing. Replaced the dizzy and BOOM, it ran almost perfect but every once in a while the check engine light would go on. Then I plugged the EGR valve with a quarter and some silicon. BOOM. Never had check engine light on for the 5,000 miles I put on it after that. So hopefully I've helped you out a little. After all the 4.3 is just a 5.7 with two cylinders cut off.
95 is tbi not vortec there is no such thing as a vortec tbi
There is a Vortec TBI. 94 and 95 4.3l are Vortec motors.
I am going to Do the EGR and try the distributor gear as well.
x2 ive seen them also plastic valve cover with vortec right on them and a good ol tbi sitting on top, 4.3l at least
Quote from: Cannaert on March 04, 2011, 02:43:05 PM
There is a Vortec TBI. 94 and 95 4.3l are Vortec motors.
I am going to Do the EGR and try the distributor gear as well.
Well it not the EGR. Still does it. I have to wait 3 day for the Drive gear for the distributor.
But what else can it be.
I have a brand new Idle air control valve on it new temp sensor.
Could the knock sensor be bad.
I am just trying to think of other options with this dumb thing.
I dont know how it could be a crackled fly wheel. I just can see it being find on day and crap the next. I could under stand it being a over a shot time period but not from one day being fine and then the next junk.
tbi injectors be a lil clogged at all?
Well after dropping 150 buck on it it runs great.
All new wires, plug, cap, rotor, coil, ignition control module and taking the EGR off. It runs 100 times better and has a much better get up and go feling that before it acted up.
knock sensor would just pull timeing. ever try a compresion / leakdown test ???
edit- never mind didnt make it to page two befor i posted loll