I'm getting ready to swap in some 2.5 rocks into my k5, and need some input
How well does using one pinion brake on the rear stop the rig? Or should I plan on running front and rear?
Does everyone just plug the master cylinders off if running one brake? And what about the proportioning valve?
Should I run all new line or can you reuse the existing line through the valve and still be able to stop ?
i have a brake front and rear, i could stop on a dime if i wanted too. i used all my existing stop brake components.
but for my rear brakes i used my existing line and hooked one of my line front the front (the line from frame to caliper) and hooked my rear that way.
for my front i took the 2 lines going to the outside of the frame out, plugged 1 on my proportional valve and ran a 8'' piece of line i bought from the parts store then did the same as i did on the rear.
i got the adapters and all the stuff i needed right of the shelf at advanced auto.
One on the rear is all I have, Truck stops great. I dont have a brake booster either. If i was gonna do higher speed mud racing i would of considered 2, just because. I blocked off 1 side of the master cyl, ran one brand new line all the way back, no proportioning valve. I stripped all the other old lines off the truck and scrapped em.
I'll prolly try to use my existing line since they are newer and in good shape, and start with just the rear brake, 84silverado did you have any clearence issues with your front rotor and leaf springs? I heard there can be clearance issues.
my front rotor is clear of everything, its about 3/4''away from hitting the spring, and thats when the axle is where its exactly supposed to be at.
if you want i can check and see what type of rotor and caliper im using again
I have just one on mine stops great. If you are not going to run a brake booster I would change the pedal ratio. My chevy had both holes in the brake pedal (power brakes use a 3:1 ratio and manual use 5:1 ) just move the rod up to the hole a little closer to the hinge point. I just pluged my front well i pluged the back and moved my rear line to the side of the master that is supose to feed the front. ( it usally has a bigger piston for disc brakes)
Quote from: 84silverado on June 08, 2012, 01:09:39 AM
my front rotor is clear of everything, its about 3/4''away from hitting the spring, and thats when the axle is where its exactly supposed to be at.
if you want i can check and see what type of rotor and caliper im using again
That would be great thanks!!
Quote from: HELLBOY on June 08, 2012, 01:41:47 AM
I have just one on mine stops great. If you are not going to run a brake booster I would change the pedal ratio. My chevy had both holes in the brake pedal (power brakes use a 3:1 ratio and manual use 5:1 ) just move the rod up to the hole a little closer to the hinge point. I just pluged my front well i pluged the back and moved my rear line to the side of the master that is supose to feed the front. ( it usally has a bigger piston for disc brakes)
Thanks that's some good info
no problem. i made my own mounting bracket since i had the scraps to do it. but i used the same thing as a family friend runs. i only had to shave alil bit off the pads because the 2 little teeth i guess you could cal, that hung off the bottom side of the pad hit the bolts on the pinion so i shaved them off and they worked out fine, no problems
-1987 mazda B2000 brake rotor
-1987 toyota 4x4 pickup caliper, pads, clips.