98 5.7l Vortec HELP!!

Started by OHEARN.2012, February 23, 2014, 05:07:43 PM

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OHEARN.2012

Ok guys long time no see but long story short been busy as hell working a lot of hours and haven't been on much. But here's my problem in a nutshell.. The other day I pull in the driveway with my car and the "Snowplower" didn't do the best job and at the top of the hill I run head on into foot and a half of un plowed snow.. So I thought hey my truck is right there ill just use it to pull it out. So I pull it out of the snow bank and up to my car and notice my tires flat  ==censor Its already in 4wd ready to go so I hooked up the strap and went to the barn for some air. I fill up the tire and proceed with pulling out the car.. Now ill admit I was pretty pissed since this isn't the first time this guy has done this. And I was beating on my truck pretty hard I tried pulling in 4hi and 4lo with no luck and so I threw it back in 4hi and started going and got it around 4000 rpm and it flat lined ________ ==rip So I thought wtf just happened so I threw it in park tried cranking it over it turn overs but no start.

1998 Chevy Silverado 4wd regular cab short box
5.7l vortec with auto trans high miles but has run flawless for the last 2.5 years
I changed the fuel pump assembly back in October of 2013 and drove it up until mid January 2014. Then parked it to drive the more favorable gas saving cavalier  loll

As of today I checked for spark and fuel pressure. My results were 62psi at prime after prime it drops to 60 and stays 58-60 psi during crank. now the spark it was only me there bought I put the test light on the #1 cylinder and put my phone on video and recorded it as I cranked it and yes there was spark.

There is no engine light on or security light. this truck has a remote start also. I tried ether down the intake with no luck either what could it be guys I am stumped

Thanks anything will help Kyle.
RBS Racing

i bog my bogger not my daily driver

built tough with chevy stuff

Listen Here Boy....I was slinging' mud before you were swimmin' round in your daddy's Nu* sack. Yankee Lake Trucks Gone Wild 2011

xjs3667

Possibly crank sensor....even if it doesn't throw a code....is it trying to fire at all....
*Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone **** your wife and being proud to raise their kids.*

*Follow my Ruts, If you got the Nuts!!*

*People say I'm Crazy,....but ya know what... I say I'm crazy too!!*

72 Bogger

I just had to replace my cap and rotor on my 98 4x4 5.7. Its the second time in 3 years and I even had the good set with the brass ends. I would check that. Those caps are notorious for getting wet and firing in the wrong sequence. 
drive like you stole it

OHEARN.2012

No its not even trying to fire or start just a solid crank. I know I have fuel up to the intake but my question is.. is it getting into it. Also it does have spark so Id assume spraying ether into the intake would get it to fire but nothing idk im confused

RBS Racing

i bog my bogger not my daily driver

built tough with chevy stuff

Listen Here Boy....I was slinging' mud before you were swimmin' round in your daddy's Nu* sack. Yankee Lake Trucks Gone Wild 2011

xjs3667

Ether can fry a maf sensor so i hope you did it after the maf and not before, also it could be cap and rotor as mentionedbefore or icm, and just because it lit the test light doesnt mean its a strong enough spark, or if the crank sensor or icm are bad it will throw the timing way waY off.
*Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone **** your wife and being proud to raise their kids.*

*Follow my Ruts, If you got the Nuts!!*

*People say I'm Crazy,....but ya know what... I say I'm crazy too!!*

OHEARN.2012

I pulled the whole intake tube off popped open the butterfly and gave it a shot. So what should I start off doing? What to replace first
RBS Racing

i bog my bogger not my daily driver

built tough with chevy stuff

Listen Here Boy....I was slinging' mud before you were swimmin' round in your daddy's Nu* sack. Yankee Lake Trucks Gone Wild 2011

72 Bogger

As I said I would consider the cap and rotor as mine has done this exact thing 3 times now. And I did the eather and I changed the plugs and wires cause I didnt think it was tbe cap and rotor as they were only a year old. But after doing everything else it ended up being the cap and rotor. That style distributer has w holes in it for letting the moister out. If they get clogged then the keep the moisture in and then the cap and rotor get coroded and wont start the motor. And just because it gets slark how do you know its sparking at the right time??? I have the same motor and same year and have done this 3 times now. Its worth looking into before anything else
drive like you stole it

xjs3667

Id do cap and rotor first, then crank sensor, then icm
*Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone **** your wife and being proud to raise their kids.*

*Follow my Ruts, If you got the Nuts!!*

*People say I'm Crazy,....but ya know what... I say I'm crazy too!!*

xjs3667

You can always get the icm tested at autozone also before you replace it to rule it out....
*Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone **** your wife and being proud to raise their kids.*

*Follow my Ruts, If you got the Nuts!!*

*People say I'm Crazy,....but ya know what... I say I'm crazy too!!*

OHEARN.2012

it was the cap and rotor or icm I took the three off and cleaned them and reassembled and walla it started. Thanks for the info guys I appreciate it. Should of looked at that before posting.
RBS Racing

i bog my bogger not my daily driver

built tough with chevy stuff

Listen Here Boy....I was slinging' mud before you were swimmin' round in your daddy's Nu* sack. Yankee Lake Trucks Gone Wild 2011

xjs3667

Make sure u use plenty of dielectric grease on bottom of icm....
*Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone **** your wife and being proud to raise their kids.*

*Follow my Ruts, If you got the Nuts!!*

*People say I'm Crazy,....but ya know what... I say I'm crazy too!!*

betterbeaters

make sure the dissy is spinning I had 2 vortecs eat dissy gears
Have no fear Better Beaters is here.
76 chevy 1 tons 4.10s 350th 208 rip
86 army truck
87 chevy short box 1 tons 38s 350 vortec 350 th 208
real men play in swamps!!! cause thats how we roll!  BITCHES
full size chevys the real mans truck!

Kyle

Cheap cap and rotors dont last long. Dealership ones aint cheap but they do last longer than autocraps
92 chevy stepside - built 408 sbc/modified 700r4/14 bolt ff/dana 60/4.56s/38.5s/western 7.5' plow

==rf Gotta Get Dirty! Nothin' Else Matters! ==djdj

RedneckMudder

sometimes on them style distributors where the screws hold the cap on they crack because theyre plastic. i had the same problem and ended up getting an aftermarket 1 thats all aluminum about 2 years ago and no problems since.
Truck-$1200
Lift, Tires, Axles-$1000
Misc. Nuts & Bolts-$650
28 Cases Of Beer-$280
Being Able To Say Built Not Bought-PRICELESS

Strapless

Xj, crank sensor will lose all spark. It kills spark and fuel injectors on that motor. For future reference.

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