FLOOR REPLACEMENT?

KORNBREAD · April 06, 2009, 02:16:53 PM

Ok on my k5 (the one in my projects page) i got the passenger floor almost all the way done and fixed. it was still in very good solid shape. but now im about to start on the driver side floor. the front of the floor where the gas and brake pedal is and behind where the driver seat is pretty solid. but the floor inbetween where the seat bolts to and where your feet rest are rotted threw! should i cut all that out and put in new sheet metal or do i just lay my new metal over it? i dont want to put good metal over rust but the floor that needs to be replaced im scared to cut out cause thats where the 4 seat bolt mounts are. what should i do and how?

Eroq · April 06, 2009, 02:56:26 PM

you think thats bad?

i'll take a pic of my f250

Disturban · April 06, 2009, 04:28:37 PM

lmctruck.com order a whole new floor pan they are stupid cheap! Cut out the old one and weld in the new one with a mig welder...it is as easy as that. You also need a rocker panel by looking at the pic, you can get one of them for like $30 also. If you don't know how to weld sheet metal find someone who does so you don't warp your new parts.

PS: Don't weld the new sheet metal on top of the old...fix it right.

KORNBREAD · April 06, 2009, 04:51:11 PM

i just put a new rocker on lol. check out my project page. and trent trust me when you look up close to mine it all crumbels when you push on it.

Crazymays77 · April 06, 2009, 04:57:17 PM

hey if u need help let me know i can find some time to come out there and help ya.

JaiDeeEmm · April 06, 2009, 04:57:53 PM

floors are a big pain in the hoo hah. im doing them on my cherokee right now.. Takes foreverrrr

7387chevynut · April 06, 2009, 05:04:25 PM

Are you talking about the sheet metal area underneath where the seat would be bolted to??

I think you are, and that is a common rot out spot on 73-91 k5 blazers..........in fact it really makes a person scary..........driving down the road and worrying about hitting a

.......and going right through the floor.........

LMC........sells FLOOR PANS.........those dont cover the (under the seat area)............and i honestly dont know if any aftermarket sheet metal restortion companies even sell that piece.

You might have to buy some heavy gauge sheet metal and fabricate/weld in.

KORNBREAD · April 06, 2009, 05:08:24 PM

well i found on lmc that they do sell the under the seat section of the floor but its over $100 just for that peice. thats crazy. the floor where my feet are and behind the seat im gonna lay with thick sheet metal but im stuck on what to do under the seat. i dont have a welder and i dont have alot of experince with metal fab. but when i do the floor where my feet go and behind the seat should i cut that out then put on my new metal? and when i do dive into this ill get a hold of ya corey

Crazymays77 · April 06, 2009, 05:15:21 PM

yeah get ahold of me. do u have 220v i can bring my welder over. not a problem. what i would do is fix what u can with the lmc sheet metal then we can fab some steel in where needed or we can just get a sheet of 1/8 or something and fab it all in. I would have to look at it then go from there. is it going to be a dd or bogger?

KORNBREAD · April 06, 2009, 06:32:02 PM

dd

creepyjon · April 07, 2009, 10:00:32 PM

forget the sheet metal, old street signs work great!!!! I've fixed several fords with them. Think about it, they are about 1/8 inch thick, and made of aluminum so they won't rot out again. After you throw the carpet back over them you will never notice.

Plus it's funny as hell to climb under the truck and look up to a "caution children crossing sign"

KORNBREAD · April 08, 2009, 02:00:28 AM

LMAO!!!!!! THATS FUNNY!

Disturban · April 08, 2009, 01:59:46 PM

Quote from: creepyjon on April 07, 2009, 10:00:32 PM
forget the sheet metal, old street signs work great!!!! I've fixed several fords with them. Think about it, they are about 1/8 inch thick, and made of aluminum so they won't rot out again. After you throw the carpet back over them you will never notice.

Plus it's funny as hell to climb under the truck and look up to a "caution children crossing sign"

Problem with that is you cant weld aluminum to steel so I am sure you riveted it to the floor board. Now the problem with that is what happens when the rivet holes rust?

Corey · April 08, 2009, 02:28:26 PM

that spot sucks for patching rust.. on my old k5 we just patched the holes up there and in the back layed all new sheet metal down.
how is the floor in the tailgate area? thats the most common spot on those to rust out

KORNBREAD · April 08, 2009, 04:05:44 PM

the back section of the k5 is suprisingly solid! i was shocked.

Mudduck · April 10, 2009, 12:23:15 PM

friend of mine went and got his floor pan for his 89 k5 and he got it from auto body complete in flint...

CRAZY MAN broncomudhead · April 10, 2009, 01:27:18 PM

I replaced my floors with old street signs that alum alwat's works better then steel and I used galvnized sheet metal in the jeep the crazymays77 has now its cheaper the buying those replacment floor panels and use self tappers with the lowest head profile that you can find but first you have to fix the door thresh with some channel steel

Crazymays77 · April 10, 2009, 02:05:14 PM

yeah he did a good job on the floors in the jeep too. kevin you see the paint job on the jeep?

KORNBREAD · April 10, 2009, 05:55:14 PM

well i got the sheet metal i needed to redo my floors. looks great and the under side was white so it even matches my stock floor lol.

CRAZY MAN broncomudhead · April 10, 2009, 06:32:12 PM

yes its looks alot better then the a--hole that I got ti from he said he painted it 3 weeks ago from when I picked it up and the paint never did dry it was always tacky and so I put flat black on it to seal the sh-t he put on Ineed to paint my meanF-150 now but have not decided on color or maybe two tone it