Engine/Head I.D./ Engine Build

[Squirell]

Www.chevymania.com good site for casting numbers

[old school truck dude]

Quote from: Hammerlane on Today at 03:49:52 PM
Well..flat top pistons that came with are 3.75" and one of the rods is bent.. tooooooo baaad!  so sad..

so, now lookin for pistons/rods..
flat tops are like 12/1 comp ratio ?  now have to run $$$$$$$ gas ?
dish tops are 9 -10/1   ?  can run pump gas?
and have been told stock rods can spin up to 9K..


3.75" ??


CID   Years   Bore   Stroke   Main bolts
262   75&76   3.671   3.10   2-bolt only
265   55-56   3.750   3.00   2-bolt only
267   79-81   3.500   3.48   2-bolt only
283   57-67   3.875   3.00   2-bolt only
302   67   4.001   3.00   2-bolt only
302   68-69   4.001   3.00   2 & 4-bolt
305   75-date   3.736   3.48   2-bolt only
307   68-73   3.875   3.25   2-bolt only
327   62-69   4.001   3.25   2-bolt only
350   67-date   4.001   3.48   2 & 4-bolt
400   70-72   4.125   3.75   2 & 4-bolt
400   73-80   4.125   3.75   2-bolt only

CID   Years   Bore   Stroke   Main bolts
348   58-61   4.125   3.25   2-bolt only
366   66-date   3.940   3.76   4-bolt
396   69-69   4.094   3.76   2 & 4-bolt
409   61-65   4.313   3.50   2-bolt only
402   70-72   4.125   3.76   2 & 4-bolt
427   66-?   4.250   3.76   2 & 4-bolt
454   70-date   4.250   4.00   2 & 4-bolt
502   91-date   4.470   4.00   4-bolt


You said the piston measures 3.75, right? That would make your block either a 265 or a 305. Neither is something you want to invest in. Now Im confused, lol

[Hammerlane]

Dis assembled when I aquired it.. pulled the rings off of one of the pistons (yesterday) and Mic'd it and it read 3.70/75 somewhere in there don't remember exactly..
well, 1 bore measured 4.029 at the top of the cyl. before I took it into have it cleaned up..
Mark (shop guy) asked who machined the block... told him I did'nt know, he said differences in cyl. was 1-3 thousanths or so,, tolerable but definately not right...

So, it's quite possible I got a bad trade w/ the pistons.. no biggie cause he got junk outta the deal too.... only difference is I was up front about it.
he was cleanin out before she cleaned him out (divorce) and the parts I traded are still outside the barn.. n' he's livin in Westland now.

In the long run.. block is good, crank is good.. so am I.

[old school truck dude]

Oh, the pistons you have didnt come out of that block, right? Ok, now I understand. Hmmm, back to the drawing board! Flat tops all the way! The measurement at the top is not where the wear is to the cylinder, ya gotta get in there bout middle ways and see what ya really got. That ridge at the top of the cylinder is above the rings so theres not much wear at that point..

[Hammerlane]

Yep, understand that, block has been machined (a long time ago) prior to me getting it, it was greased thruout and sat in storage for many years..
there was some light surface rust in 1-2 of the cylinders and a lifter hole or two.. new cam bearings were in it as well as the crank and bearings however..
the rod journals also had some rust and the entire thing had collected years of garage dirt so I took it in and had it cleaned up... afterwards the guy I traded w/
brought over the "Pistons he owed me" to "complete" the deal, I blindly accepted them.
at the top of my post I asked about using a caliper on the top of the cyl. to take the bore measurment.. this was done on a machined surface and no ridge is visible at all.. it measured 4.029/ 4.030 so I informed Mark about this, he checked them out cleaned it all up, tanked it and installed new cam bearings.. was cheap insurance in my book.   I have built several motors over the years but it's been quite a while since my last one, I'm not real good w/ the technical parts ie... what does good w/what .. comp  ratios, flat tops vs. domed vs. dished etc... as well as all the new products on the market, I like the torque motors, my last one (in my Red Chevy) was a 355 w/ the Edlebrock performer package (cam/intake/carb) and it moved that heavy azz truck pretty good as a DD for 8 yrs before I retired it to the bogger trailer where it spent another 3 full seasons under extreme throttle pedal pressure.. and it still runs, this motor is for the stepchild in my sig. below.

so.. on with the build.. guy I know on here has a set of .030 flat tops and rods priced very right.. Cast speed pro's - good or should I look to upgrade? (again just one of the technical ) along with a set of TBI heads that he is unsure of the condition..( no numbers yet)

[J.C.]

tbi heads, ya gotta have a tbi intake, whether it be carbed or fuel injected, unless your going to womp out the holes... no pun intended.

[Hammerlane]

tbi heads, ya gotta have a tbi intake, whether it be carbed or fuel injected, unless your going to womp out the holes... no pun intended.

yea, those are the center ones (holes) that go straight down instead of on an angle right

[J.C.]

tbi heads, ya gotta have a tbi intake, whether it be carbed or fuel injected, unless your going to womp out the holes... no pun intended.

yea, those are the center ones (holes) that go straight down instead of on an angle right

yep

[old school truck dude]

Ive had good luck with speed pro, cast is "ok", forged is way better. If the price is right youll be fine. Have they ever been used? If they have, best to run them through the machine shop and see if the pistons are collapsed and if theres any stretch to the rods. Replace the rod bolts and youre good on that part.. 

[Hammerlane]

Thank you sir 

[Hammerlane]

Yep, me n' my lil' buddy..his reaction to that is one that will stick w/me forever...
OMG I almost cried from laughing so hard.
and just for reference I'm 6'4"... dat hole was DDDDDDDEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!!!! n' I was on the edge.

[old school truck dude]

 

[Hammerlane]

Well, .030 over flat top pistons and rods are now done and ready for install..
took them in and had them checked out.. crank end of the rods were out of shape.. Mark
was able to grind a little off of the cap and rehone..
all the wrist pins were removed, cleaned and reinstalled.. move real nice now.
bearings, plastiguage, rings and oil pump are next..

Clevite bearings.. heard that is the best route..
Rings - suggestions

[old school truck dude]

Clevite bearings, yup. Rings, I dont know these days

[4x4xdodgeman]

you did all this and no new rods bolts?

[Hammerlane]

you did all this and no new rods bolts?

   you funny..  yea, that's in the budget for all new lower and upper fasteners.
lower end fasteners (rods and mains) will be purchased w/ the bearings/rings.
plastiguage and red locktite upon final assembly.

appreciate ya keepin me in check though

[OHEARN.2012]

not trying to jack your thread or anything just trying to save some rooms but if u could coould id my engine and heads itd be appreciated

number on front of block is v0229fsb
rear of block 010207 gm 5
heads had the same number 14102191
also one had e067 and other had g286

can ya guys help a young mudder out?

[Squirell]

Www.chevymania.com

[Hammerlane]

^^ there ya go.. top of the page.. "part I.D."
you can also google "chevy engine I.D."  there are several good articles explaining what all of those numbers mean.
and how to "read" your parts.
and no hi-jack worries.. part of the reason I started the thread