WTF..IM GOING CRAZY...SOLVED!

Started by KORNBREAD, April 02, 2011, 01:07:01 AM

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KORNBREAD

How can I delete the egr and not have my truck run like crap all the time?  I know when they start to go bad your car can have issues like ruff idle and running,poor fuel consumption, and some overheating. so how can i take it off and not get these problems. If there is a way im down for that!.....but as i sit here and right this the carb motors dont have them so i guess theres no difference right?
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

73chevytruck

i think you can take it off and get/make a block off plate
i dont have a mud bogging problem, i got it under control


Disturban

#22
Quote from: 73chevytruck on April 03, 2011, 07:25:18 PM
i think you can take it off and get/make a block off plate
Exactly, I know on a OBDII vehicle it will throw a code with a block off plate and you can have that code deleted in a tune, that is what I am doing on the Bravada...however I don't think a OBDI vehicle will throw a code, I am pretty sure your EGR is Vacuum operated VS OBDII is electronically controlled. Just make a block of plate for it and if it does not throw a code you are good to go, if it does throw a code Brian at tbichips can delete it from your chip.

On my 88 Suburban I blocked it off and never had a code and computer went into closed loop, mine was vacuum controlled...I am 99% sure yours is also and should not throw a code...just use a egr gasket as a template and make the block off plate, then sandwich the plate between 2 gaskets and leave the egr out, you might need slightly longer bolts, make sure to plug the unused vacuum line!

Number one reason I do it is because of carbon build up, without egr your valves, heads and pistons will stay way cleaner, On OBDII equipped vehicles it will ad a little advance in the timing when the egr opens, when I get my dyno tune this advance will be taken out with the egr code delete otherwise when the computer calls for egr the timing could advance too much and cause pinging/spark knock and retard the timing...I don't want anything like that messing with my tune, my timing will be set at just the verge of pinging through the entire rpm range. I have $1500 into this little 4.3 now and I want all the performance I can get, when we installed the cam we took the heads off and had them milled and cleaned up and it was carbon galore, spanked a grand prix gt yesterday with it on the freeway and it is not even tuned yet and is running like a pig ==roll

PS: I know if you order a TBI manifold from Edelbrock it does not have an egr on it so I think it is safe to say all TBI equipped OBDI vehicles will not throw a code with it deleted?

PS Again: Bravada went 0-60 in 6.2 seconds using a friends Gtech the other day with Cooper ST mud tires ==roll Cant wait for dyno tune ==roll

KORNBREAD

yeah its got the vacume egr. sweet that saves me $70. ill be blocking that off tomorrow. and yes this motor has a lot of carbon build up. its working its way out the more I fix and the more i drive it but she still needs some help lol.
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

Disturban

Quote from: KORNBREAD on April 03, 2011, 11:23:31 PM
and yes this motor has a lot of carbon build up. its working its way out the more I fix and the more i drive it but she still needs some help lol.
If you can get your hands on it get the old GM top end cleaner, the new reformulated version screws into the fuel rail of newer cars, you obviously dont have a fuel rail. GM discontinued the old version of the top end cleaner however I think Mopar still has a version available that was identical to the GM stuff...this stuff is way better than sea foam, sea foam is mostly just alcohol. You can do it the old fashioned way also and use water, make sure your motor is hot, and just use a little at a time so you dont hydro lock it.

What ever you do make sure to change your oil afterwords!

If you clean the top end do it before you install new plugs otherwise crap could get wedged into the electrodes, I have done a few cars back in the days and while changing plugs I would bring each piston to tdc, take out the plug and blow compressed air into each individual cylinder to make sure to blow any crap out of them that was left behind and loose.   

old school truck dude

Quote from: Disturban on April 03, 2011, 06:36:23 PM
Quote from: KORNBREAD on April 03, 2011, 04:57:12 PM
yeah all i buy is ac lol. plugs also.   well it still has a slight miss but i noticed when i had the tbi off the egr looks really bad. its pretty much a toasted looking flying saucer lol.
Delete that p00...use an egr block off plate!

I just grind the tip off the egr and make a gasket with gasket material and a little silicone that covers the whole thing and put it back on with a ball bearing in the hose

old school truck dude

#26
Quote from: KORNBREAD on April 03, 2011, 07:15:09 PM
How can I delete the egr and not have my truck run like crap all the time?  I know when they start to go bad your car can have issues like ruff idle and running,poor fuel consumption, and some overheating. so how can i take it off and not get these problems. If there is a way im down for that!.....but as i sit here and right this the carb motors dont have them so i guess theres no difference right?

It does that because they get a big-time vacuum leak when they go bad. Motorcraft #26 is a real good plug for SBC.

KORNBREAD

OMG IM STILL GOING CRAZY WITH THIS TRUCK!!! So i went and bought a brand new cap and rotor, and blocked off the egr and still no difference.  Its starts a hell of a lot better and after i cleaned out the tbi and put a new base gasket down it no longer chugs when taking off, but it still has a miss when i back up and misses while driving. Im at a total loss. i sprayed the intake for leaks..none...antifreeze is still clean and full from when I put the new thermastat in it 3 days ago...oil has no mix in it....it is starting to smoke some more now while at idle and take off now that its on its 2nd oil change. Still getting alot of carbon coming out of the tail pipe when revving it. it put all new vacume hoses on it also.  Im starting to wonder if it has a dead cylinder but wouldn't that throw a code?
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

old school truck dude

#28
No, probably wouldnt set a code. You have worn valve guides, thats the smoke when you start it. The intermittent miss is probably the valves floppin around in there a bit, might have a burnt one or close to burnt.. Run a compression/leakdown test.

73chevytruck

i dont have a mud bogging problem, i got it under control


KORNBREAD

#30
no I dont think it the fuel pump. with all the carbon im leaning on the burnt valves myself. Its starting to smoke pretty good now if i sit and rev it up and the tip of the tail pipe is solid black with carbon soot. Also when i take off from a light it starting to smoke a little on take off also.
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

Disturban

Honestly I would pull the heads and clean them, get all carbon out, then you can polish them and gasket match the heads and intake and change valve guides.

As far as your miss goes go get a whole new distributor from the bone yard and replace it, that will narrow it down to either something in the dizzy or the ecm...I had an s10 a long time ago that would random miss fire and after pouring way too much money into it I took it to a shop and they watched the live data stream and said the ecm was acting up, changed that and it was all good. I think my local LKQ sells dizzys for like $25!

KORNBREAD

yeah im taking it to the local shop down the street. They do really good work and have Fixed many of things for my family and friends. Im just gonna have them look at it and find exactly whats wrong.  Then ill fix it from there. Thanks for all the tips and info guys! and disturban thanks for the lesson on the egr.
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

old school truck dude

Years ago, we always used to run a compression test when we had one with a miss, make sure you got a motor worth hangin parts on... ;D

Cannaert

#34
Wow this Kind of sounds like mine.
Mine runs great when not in gear. Put in in gear and it runs like p00.  Put a new Cap, Rotor, Plugs, wires, Coil, ICM, TPS, Coolant temp sensor, Knock sensor and now last but not least to be replaced is what I hope it is and hope it shows up this week and is last and final issue is the Sending unit. Oh and the EGR is Blocked off.  95  TBI 350 with OBDI.
Hokey Fab- Idea and Fab guy.

damn_ford

mine is kinda doin that too, 95 tbi, idle to half throttle is fine lotsa power .tow barred a 28 foot box truck from mayville to vassar no problem.  over half throttle or over 3000 rpm i get black smoke and it breaks up. changed all the normal tune up stuff. eliminated
egr, no codes, leaning towards swapping the whole dist, sometimes it will even spark knock

the black smoke and occasional pinging are making me thing worn dist gear. if that dont work im going to check the tps

old school truck dude

Quote from: damn_ford on April 06, 2011, 11:29:34 AM
mine is kinda doin that too, 95 tbi, idle to half throttle is fine lotsa power .tow barred a 28 foot box truck from mayville to vassar no problem.  over half throttle or over 3000 rpm i get black smoke and it breaks up. changed all the normal tune up stuff. eliminated
egr, no codes, leaning towards swapping the whole dist, sometimes it will even spark knock

the black smoke and occasional pinging are making me thing worn dist gear. if that dont work im going to check the tps

Runnin rich, might be a vacuum leak

KORNBREAD

yeah i was gonna do a compression test but I cant get ahold of my buddy that has one so I just took it up to the local shop and am having them do all the tests.
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

KORNBREAD

#38
Well gonna be pulling the motor tonight and have other one in tomorrow.  Pulled the plugs and right off the bat noticed the number 1 plug (just put in 5 days ago)  is covered in baked oil! This plug is beyond bad! number 3 plug is starting to get oil soaked also. Took it to the shop anyways and number 1 and 3 need rings (which I knew that when i seen all the baked oil) but had it fully checked anyways. I got a motor from a 87 chevy tbi 140K miles (i know its kinda high) but i got it for so cheap i couldn't pass it up. also when i took the valve cover off the suburbans motor the top of the heads are packed with old sludge. (like I said the old owners are dumb ass's and didnt know what routine maintenance was)
LIVE HARD, BOGG HARD, DIE MUDDY!!!

RIP_K52007

I got a 2.5 we can drop in there, call it the econo-burban hybrid loll

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