need info on how to run just a master cylinder on a chevy truck. can you buy a master cylinder setup that bolts right up without the brake booster?
yea a 79 ford pinto i believe
Quote from: BC775 on December 09, 2012, 02:08:07 AM
yea a 79 ford pinto i believe
k thanks. trying to eliminate or move the steering and brakes from the firewall as much as possible to make the boxed in front end different. only other thing to move would be the windshield wiper motor but thats no biggy i guess.
no. i have a Wilwood floor mount unit in my truck. i got it for 100 bucks thru jegs it works set too. Its only 4"x2" mastercylinder so it can fit in tight areas
i got an 85 chev i had to get rid of booster on, master cyl bolted right to firewall where booster did. shorten plunger rod and a brace or bracket to keep it from coming out of position. seems to work good and i'm only running front disc brakes.
Quote from: 85cHeavyMetalBogger on December 09, 2012, 04:27:35 AM
i got an 85 chev i had to get rid of booster on, master cyl bolted right to firewall where booster did. shorten plunger rod and a brace or bracket to keep it from coming out of position. seems to work good and i'm only running front disc brakes.
thanks man got any pics?
Quote from: 85cHeavyMetalBogger on December 09, 2012, 04:27:35 AM
i got an 85 chev i had to get rid of booster on, master cyl bolted right to firewall where booster did. shorten plunger rod and a brace or bracket to keep it from coming out of position. seems to work good and i'm only running front disc brakes.
did the same here, bust your booster up and get the rod out of it, and on your brake pedal the plunger rod stud has two possible locations, you will need to grind the weld off the stud and put it in the other available hole to correct the rod angle. Also use a spring from pedal to floor to keep the rod from falling out. It's all easy to do
Edit: the pedal stud was on a chevelle, might be diff than truck pedal
Quote from: 85cHeavyMetalBogger on December 09, 2012, 04:27:35 AM
i got an 85 chev i had to get rid of booster on, master cyl bolted right to firewall where booster did. shorten plunger rod and a brace or bracket to keep it from coming out of position.
Did the same thing. Then plugged one side of master and ran 1 new line to rear rockwell pinion brake. Works great.
Quote from: TRENT on December 09, 2012, 08:14:52 PM
Im wanting to do this to my truck. Just seems like a pain in the ass with the whole rod thing? How bad is it?
easy, especially in a truck. I did it in my chevelle with the doors welded shut and I'm 250 lbs, lol.
I've done 2 trucks now, had to move the one over 6" in my s blazer, bout 3hrs and done
Quote from: Boggen Joe on December 13, 2012, 11:31:08 PM
I've done 2 trucks now, had to move the one over 6" in my s blazer, bout 3hrs and done
so you moved brake pedal assembly too?
Quote from: Bryank on December 14, 2012, 01:47:01 AM
Quote from: Boggen Joe on December 13, 2012, 11:31:08 PM
I've done 2 trucks now, had to move the one over 6" in my s blazer, bout 3hrs and done
so you moved brake pedal assembly too?
only on the s10, on the k5 I did not
What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering :)
With uprights they are sometimes to close to the master cylinder and will boil the brake fluid out then no brakes.
Quote from: Newbie on December 17, 2012, 01:34:49 PM
What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering :)
my reason was the booster broke off, leaving zero brakes
Quote from: Mudgrunt on December 17, 2012, 03:29:02 PM
With uprights they are sometimes to close to the master cylinder and will boil the brake fluid out then no brakes.
Quote from: marshall on December 17, 2012, 05:06:23 PM
Quote from: Newbie on December 17, 2012, 01:34:49 PM
What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering :)
my reason was the booster broke off, leaving zero brakes
Thanks guys I haven't gotten to put the uprights yet on mine. But good to know!
Quote from: Newbie on December 17, 2012, 01:34:49 PM
What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering :)
i'm doing it for valve cover clearance and more convienant for boxed in front end and it will give me a vacum for a pcv valve seeing how intake didnt have a extra port.
do ya gotta bust or cut up the brake booster to get the rod out?
yes you need to pry the booster apart then just keep on taking things apart until you have the rod in your hand we had to brake some plastic parts and cut some other pieces but once you get the booster apart you will see what you need to do. once it's apart there is no turning back.
just get the rod out of a 82 or 83 plain jane chevy truck with out a brake booster, came in straight 6 3 speed trucks
thanks guys
I get the rod out with a hammer
I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights
i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it, and still havent tryed to get the rod out of brake booster and gotta cut to lenght i think. 73 cab and 80's booster n master cylinder is what i got. kinda sucks i gotta ruin the booster though had 2 70's brkae setups i scrapped last summer.
Quote from: Ikuhna on March 01, 2013, 03:00:10 AM
I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights
then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?
Quote from: Bryank on March 01, 2013, 03:16:08 AM
i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it
huh? They bolt up where booster went?
Quote from: marshall on March 01, 2013, 03:22:05 AM
Quote from: Ikuhna on March 01, 2013, 03:00:10 AM
I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights
then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?
well im gonna have to use the one i got lol
Quote from: marshall on March 01, 2013, 03:23:32 AM
Quote from: Bryank on March 01, 2013, 03:16:08 AM
i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it
huh? They bolt up where booster went?
the hole on my cab is smaller then the part of master cylinder that goes into it?
Guess I haven't seen that bryan
You can get a manual MC pretty cheap with the pedal. Get one with a smaller bore, it will make more psi to compensate for no booster. Only down side is that it will have less capacity. Or just get a longer pedal.
Orr. They do make a dual diaphragm booster. They are smaller than stock, and make more stopping power
Just throwing that out there.
I plan on going manual MC this summer for the same reason.
But to help with the boiling issue jump up to DOT 5.1 fluid. It has the highest boiling point. NOT DOT 5
You can mix DOT 5.1 DOT 4 and DOT 3. DOT 5 will separate with the others if mixed, bubble and foam.
Pointing that out because if you do get a MC from another vehicle, be sure to clean it well before adding fluid. Just in case for what ever reason somone put DOT 5 in it. You will notice right away when you bleed it. You never know. Btw, DOT 5 is blue/purple and DOT 5.1 is clear
Quote from: Newbie on December 17, 2012, 05:09:17 PM
Quote from: Mudgrunt on December 17, 2012, 03:29:02 PM
With uprights they are sometimes to close to the master cylinder and will boil the brake fluid out then no brakes.
Quote from: marshall on December 17, 2012, 05:06:23 PM
Quote from: Newbie on December 17, 2012, 01:34:49 PM
What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering :)
my reason was the booster broke off, leaving zero brakes
Thanks guys I haven't gotten to put the uprights yet on mine. But good to know!
you shouldn't have a problem with a full size usually just the smaller trucks unles you moved the body way back then maybe you might have an issue
I had to use a 67 camaro master with the rod cut out of my booster for my headers to clear on my full size. tryed just removing booster and still hit swaped in camaro master worked great. but I had bigger tubes than 99% of the sbc uprights out there
Quote from: marshall on March 01, 2013, 03:22:05 AM
Quote from: Ikuhna on March 01, 2013, 03:00:10 AM
I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights
then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?
I found a piece of steel and the garage and fabbed it in to work.. any piece of straight rod will work..
Quote from: Ikuhna on March 08, 2013, 02:32:54 PM
Quote from: marshall on March 01, 2013, 03:22:05 AM
Quote from: Ikuhna on March 01, 2013, 03:00:10 AM
I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights
then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?
I found a piece of steel and the garage and fabbed it in to work.. any piece of straight rod will work..
yes I know, but you stated " there was no mods to it or anything n that nature". Fabbing a piece of steel to work is an important piece of info.
finally opened up the hole in the cab the other day and got the master cylinder mounted. cut a little out too where it was rusting out also. gotta patch it up and cut the pushrod and it'll be done.
Now you are making progress keep moving forward remember you will need to fashion something to hold the rod in place then bleed them.