eliminating brake booster

[Bryank]

thanks guys

[marshall]

I get the rod out with a hammer

[Ikuhna]

I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights

[Bryank]

i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it, and still havent tryed to get the rod out of brake booster and gotta cut to lenght i think. 73 cab and 80's booster n master cylinder is what i got. kinda sucks i gotta ruin the booster though had 2 70's brkae setups i scrapped last summer.

[marshall]

I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights

then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?

[marshall]

i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it

huh? They bolt up where booster went?

[Bryank]

I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights

then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?

well im gonna have to use the one i got lol

i need to open up the hole on the firewall so the master cylinder will fit in it

huh? They bolt up where booster went?

the hole on my cab is smaller then the part of master cylinder that goes into it?

[marshall]

Guess I haven't seen that bryan

[Jthomas]

You can get a manual MC pretty cheap with the pedal. Get one with a smaller bore, it will make more psi to compensate for no booster. Only down side is that it will have less capacity. Or just get a longer pedal.  

Orr. They do make a dual diaphragm booster. They are smaller than stock, and make more stopping power

Just throwing that out there.





I plan on going manual MC this summer for the same reason.  
But to help with the boiling issue jump up to DOT 5.1 fluid. It has the highest boiling point.   NOT DOT 5
You can mix DOT 5.1 DOT 4 and DOT 3.   DOT 5 will separate with the others if mixed, bubble and foam.
Pointing that out because if you do get a MC from another vehicle, be sure to clean it well before adding fluid. Just in case for what ever reason somone put DOT 5 in it. You will notice right away when you bleed it. You never know. Btw, DOT 5 is blue/purple and DOT 5.1 is clear

[BAD APPLE]

With uprights they are sometimes to close to the master cylinder and will boil the brake fluid out then no brakes.

What is the reasoning for doing this? Just wondering

my reason was the booster broke off, leaving zero brakes

Thanks guys I haven't gotten to put the uprights yet on mine. But good to know!

you shouldn't have a problem with a full size usually just the smaller trucks unles you moved the body way back then maybe you might have an issue

[betterbeaters]

I had to use a 67 camaro master with the rod cut out of my booster for my headers to clear on my full size. tryed just removing booster and still hit swaped in camaro master worked great. but I had bigger tubes than 99% of the sbc uprights out there

[Ikuhna]

I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights

then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?

I found a piece of steel and the garage and fabbed it in to work.. any piece of straight rod will work..

[marshall]

I removed the brake booster on cbakes blazer did no mods to it or anything n that nature just bolted it right to the existing studs that the booster was on and hooked it back up.. seems to work great and gave us the extra room for the uprights

then what did you use for a rod if you didn't get one from the booster?

I found a piece of steel and the garage and fabbed it in to work.. any piece of straight rod will work..

yes I know, but you stated " there was no mods to it or anything n that nature". Fabbing a piece of steel to work is an important piece of info.

[Bryank]

finally opened up the hole in the cab the other day and got the master cylinder mounted. cut a little out too where it was rusting out also. gotta patch it up and cut the pushrod and it'll be done.

[Mudgrunt]

Now you are making progress keep moving forward remember you will need to fashion something to hold the rod in place then bleed them.