98 s 10 front drive shaft

[robgir82]

hello all i have a prob. i have a 98 s-10 2 door on jeep axles. i am trying to use all my same t-case and trans but i am haveing a prob. with my front drive shaft. it is the style that slips in my t-case but i cant seem to find a way to convert it over. please help.

[Eroq]

youll have to use the slip yoke style front driveshaft for it.... or you can swap it over to an older one, early 90s should have a fixed front yoke.

[mariozoldos]

http://www.s10-4x4.org./

get the jeep driveshaft to....

check this out


NP233 fixed front output modification.
Link to me truck

Get your parts ready

Parts to get:

Front output shaft from NP231 (that runs 1" chain) with yoke.

Front output seal for NP231. - This is needed because a larger ID is needed for the seal going over the yoke.

Get tools, sealant, and oils



Specialty tools:

C-clip expander (most other tools used is common socket set, etc).



Fluids:

Dextron III

Permatex Ultra Black

Thread sealant

Just do it







Believe it or not, I couldn't find anything in my 3 volume set of service manual on tearing down an NP233.  And it's also a mystery on the internet.  I just researched part numbers and such to deduct that it is fairly identical to an NP231 which most others have told me.  There is a wealth of info on the internet about the NP231, so I won't go into too much detail here.  The job is really not difficult at all, and took me only a few hours of really taking my time.  I did sort of cheat though.  I had indepentent4x make me a custom crossmember after he cut out the original one behind the tcase.   If this is not done, I really couldn't imagine wrestling with the tcase otherwise.  Each section from the back to spliting the case has to come off one at a time.  There are C-clips that must come out.  If something is being forced too much, there is probably a C-clip holding it some how.  The center requires quite a bit of prying to break the seal.  There is a slot on the bottom near the passenger side that I put a big screw driver in and wacked with a sledge hammer to get it apart.  That was probably the hardest part of the job along with prying the original front output seal as can be seen in the picture.  While it's apart, take the time to clean off the magnet that catches the metal shavings.  Also blow out the screen filter.  I put locktite thread sealant on the splines the yoke before slipping on the shaft.  Just my experience to prevent leakage out the shaft, dunno if it's necessary.  There will be one left over c-clip after all done.  The c-clip that originally went on the front output shft is not needed on the new shaft.  This is because the yoke will act as the barrier for the inner race of the bearing on the new shaft.



Also, I hear that if you wanted to beef up the tcase a bit, a 1.25" chaincan be swapped for the 1", but the main shaft gear would also need swapped, which wouldn't be bad if the tcase you got had the 1.25" style.  But I didn't want to take chances if this would work or not and stayed with the 1" width chain.  My driving style isn't too rough, so I really don't think I'll ever have a problem.  I have 86k miles on my truck when I tore it apart, and for a daily driver, weekend warrior, it didn't show much wear inside.

Miscellaneous











I got my front output shaft from an NP231 I got from a  junkyard.  Mine came out of a 90 XJ.  It was about half the price of buying a new shaft and that's not counting the cost of the yoke and nut.



The shaft I orginally had it was originally modified with a custom flange setup from Woodys that I used with great success with the lift I had before on it, which was the TM 5" lift, but with the SFA conversion, it worked well on the trail, but not much over 20mph.  I want a rig that I can drive on snowy roads also which is was drove me to do this mod so I can put in a CV style joint at the tcase.  UPDATE:  I need to update the picture of the front shaft.  Cause I had to return my original to Woody shaft (they have great products, but didn't have anything for my particular case this time).  So, I got the exact shaft I needed from the Driveshaft Superstore in Arizona.  It's hight angle CV and a long 7" of useable travel, just awsome.



Here is some great reference links for finding NP233's with 1" chain and fixed yokes.  This is what I used to narrow down my choices:

This is my favorite link



To take a gander at the guts of an NP231



I had my original rear shaft re-tubed at MRM Driveline after it bent on a boulder climb.



Here's all my pics.

[robgir82]

http://www.s10-4x4.org./

get the jeep driveshaft to....

check this out


NP233 fixed front output modification.
Link to me truck

Get your parts ready

Parts to get:

Front output shaft from NP231 (that runs 1" chain) with yoke.

Front output seal for NP231. - This is needed because a larger ID is needed for the seal going over the yoke.

Get tools, sealant, and oils



Specialty tools:

C-clip expander (most other tools used is common socket set, etc).



Fluids:

Dextron III

Permatex Ultra Black

Thread sealant

Just do it







Believe it or not, I couldn't find anything in my 3 volume set of service manual on tearing down an NP233.  And it's also a mystery on the internet.  I just researched part numbers and such to deduct that it is fairly identical to an NP231 which most others have told me.  There is a wealth of info on the internet about the NP231, so I won't go into too much detail here.  The job is really not difficult at all, and took me only a few hours of really taking my time.  I did sort of cheat though.  I had indepentent4x make me a custom crossmember after he cut out the original one behind the tcase.   If this is not done, I really couldn't imagine wrestling with the tcase otherwise.  Each section from the back to spliting the case has to come off one at a time.  There are C-clips that must come out.  If something is being forced too much, there is probably a C-clip holding it some how.  The center requires quite a bit of prying to break the seal.  There is a slot on the bottom near the passenger side that I put a big screw driver in and wacked with a sledge hammer to get it apart.  That was probably the hardest part of the job along with prying the original front output seal as can be seen in the picture.  While it's apart, take the time to clean off the magnet that catches the metal shavings.  Also blow out the screen filter.  I put locktite thread sealant on the splines the yoke before slipping on the shaft.  Just my experience to prevent leakage out the shaft, dunno if it's necessary.  There will be one left over c-clip after all done.  The c-clip that originally went on the front output shft is not needed on the new shaft.  This is because the yoke will act as the barrier for the inner race of the bearing on the new shaft.



Also, I hear that if you wanted to beef up the tcase a bit, a 1.25" chaincan be swapped for the 1", but the main shaft gear would also need swapped, which wouldn't be bad if the tcase you got had the 1.25" style.  But I didn't want to take chances if this would work or not and stayed with the 1" width chain.  My driving style isn't too rough, so I really don't think I'll ever have a problem.  I have 86k miles on my truck when I tore it apart, and for a daily driver, weekend warrior, it didn't show much wear inside.

Miscellaneous











I got my front output shaft from an NP231 I got from a  junkyard.  Mine came out of a 90 XJ.  It was about half the price of buying a new shaft and that's not counting the cost of the yoke and nut.



The shaft I orginally had it was originally modified with a custom flange setup from Woodys that I used with great success with the lift I had before on it, which was the TM 5" lift, but with the SFA conversion, it worked well on the trail, but not much over 20mph.  I want a rig that I can drive on snowy roads also which is was drove me to do this mod so I can put in a CV style joint at the tcase.  UPDATE:  I need to update the picture of the front shaft.  Cause I had to return my original to Woody shaft (they have great products, but didn't have anything for my particular case this time).  So, I got the exact shaft I needed from the Driveshaft Superstore in Arizona.  It's hight angle CV and a long 7" of useable travel, just awsome.



Here is some great reference links for finding NP233's with 1" chain and fixed yokes.  This is what I used to narrow down my choices:

This is my favorite link



To take a gander at the guts of an NP231



I had my original rear shaft re-tubed at MRM Driveline after it bent on a boulder climb.



Here's all my pics.

thank you very much will be trying this real soon

[mariozoldos]

Lmk how it goes I'm going to be putting a yj Dana 30 in my jimmy..... I think I've read the yj had the same pinion pretty easy to install or something.....still reading....