460 hard turning over??? I NEED HELP

Started by dusty59, August 18, 2012, 12:01:19 PM

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dusty59

 I have a 460 that i put into my truck and fired up. it ran great. i didn't run it very long. but i started it a couple times for 5 to 10 minutes at a time. Then the next day it wouldnt turn over with a fully charger battery and even hooked up to my jeep. I checked the timing, connections, and even changed a few wires. i cant even turn it with a wrench. but i took the plugs out and the starter will turn it over but it is stiff as hell. I didnt have and oil pressure gauge hooked up so i don't know if it had oil flowing. what do you think???

Motor history: this motor came in a ranchero i picked up from an old guy a few years ago. It ran great, and was strong. I even drove it down the road a few times. The guy told me it was a fresh 460 .60 over with forged pistons and a mild cam. When i pulled the motor i never took the heads off. But i pulled the intake and oil pan and checked it out a little. from the bottom side i could see the cylinders were really clean and still had some hone marks. the connecting rods were stamped with numbers. and i could see the crank was balanced. So i put it all back together and threw it in the truck. all i changed was the headers, and distributor.  Thanks for looking. any thoughts would be appreciated

this is a link to my build. there are a few pictures of the motor in here.       http://wegotmud.com/forum/index.php?topic=72822.0

390JOE

was it making any strange noises when you tuned it in?
my monkeyy likes to eat ==dancinbananaa

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GIT R DUN


http://gotmud4x4.org/forum/index.php
http://www.eastsidemudders.cmudfly.com/index.php
http://www.minnesotamud.com/


71 Highboy

Did you make sure the oil pump shaft was in place when you changed the distributor? May noy not have been getting oil
TNT BOGGING
71 F250 on 44 hawgs or tractors,71 429/c6/205 1 tons w/538s

old school truck dude

Quote from: 71 Highboy on August 18, 2012, 12:28:34 PM
Did you make sure the oil pump shaft was in place when you changed the distributor? May noy not have been getting oil

x1000 That mistake has been made by quite a few people, its very easy to leave out!! From what you describe, Im almost positive thats what happened! (Yup, I did it too, many years ago, thats what happens when you build motors drunk)

dusty59

The shaft is in. But I'm not sure if it was right or not. It seemed good.

marshall

Timing too far advanced? Engine grounded to frame?
chevvv proud member of the wrong crowd chevvv

4x4xdodgeman

do you have atf in the trans? unhook tc from the motor. dose it turn over then.

dusty59

I just looked in the distributor hole and I don't see the shaft. So I'm guessing its down in the oil pan...???? Should I pull the motor and check it out or put a new shaft in it and see how it feels when it gets oil? With no oil what did I wipe out?

old school truck dude

Quote from: dusty59 on August 19, 2012, 01:40:58 PM
I just looked in the distributor hole and I don't see the shaft. So I'm guessing its down in the oil pan...???? Should I pull the motor and check it out or put a new shaft in it and see how it feels when it gets oil? With no oil what did I wipe out?

The cam, rod, and main bearings will be trash. Pull the motor, flush the block, and replace all the bearings. Have the cam, crank, and pistons measured to see if they got hurt also. You may also have spun a bearing, in which case you'll have to replace a rod or possibly have the block machined to repair the damage. It ran long enough to do some serious damage.

Jthomas

Quote from: old school truck dude on August 19, 2012, 02:29:01 PM
Quote from: dusty59 on August 19, 2012, 01:40:58 PM
I just looked in the distributor hole and I don't see the shaft. So I'm guessing its down in the oil pan...???? Should I pull the motor and check it out or put a new shaft in it and see how it feels when it gets oil? With no oil what did I wipe out?

The cam, rod, and main bearings will be trash. Pull the motor, flush the block, and replace all the bearings. Have the cam, crank, and pistons measured to see if they got hurt also. You may also have spun a bearing, in which case you'll have to replace a rod or possibly have the block machined to repair the damage. It ran long enough to do some serious damage.

X2
Women+Trucks= Heaven    chevgal
I have a thing for superchargers...
if you cant dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshitt


old school truck dude

#10
Just so ya know, if you spun a cam bearing, the machine shop will most likely say thats not repairable or want to come up with a special high-price bearing and machining and all this hoorah. That aint true. You can take a sharp center punch and gently stake the part of the block that the bearing sits in and it should hold it still enough to work for a good long while provided the block aint just ate up all to pieces.. Add a little loctite if ya want. No guarantee itll stay still forever or even for a minute, but its definitely worth a try if most the other stuff checks out good. Now, understand I am in no way recommendin you do this if you have a spun cam bearing. Ok? Im just sayin its been done before successfully loll

HellYeah4x4

if your block has any issues i got 1 ill let go real cheap..its bare and been shot peened and sonic checked....could def be bored to 60 over. i got a cam n lifters ill sell cheap as well in case ya wiped out a lobe or summin
WHAT THIS WORLDNEEDS IS A FEW MORE REDNECKS                 
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dusty59

Thanks for all the tips. I'm going to start pecking away at it. I'll post the profess. Thanks again guys.

Captn. J

i have a brand new 460  gonna be nice in ur truck   pm me if interested or check out for sale section
forddgal  forddd  forddgal


'81 F250
'03 F150

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