Sbc 383 build

[wideopen]

Motor in the wife's truck was killed in action last week 😞

Question is if I decide to build a 383 out of it what's the up and down side of building a stroker with the 5.7 rod over the 6"

[Jthomas]

I personally prefer longer rods just because of the TQ output at lower rpm. But I don't spin crazy rpm like most guys. I always stay under 5k

It's really depends on what you want it to do/what it's used for and the parts you put into it.

[wideopen]

Something respectable for the street
Already have a block that is ready to go
Have a nice set of 5.7 eagle H beam rods
Have the distributor / coil (Malory)
And that's about where I sit as far as parts
Just not to sure what way to go

[Jthomas]

 If your on a tight budget, and it's just a town pownder, I'd just use what you have and go from there.
Like I said up top, with a long rod you aren't going to need/want high rpm, your rotating assem will be heavier, but then will also produce more torque. Depending on what you want, you can get away without using forged anything. Just be easy on the timing. If you have the unilite distributor, make sure you have the ballast resistor for it also.

If you had a plan, example: (I have $1500 to spend, this is what I have already... And I want to make 400hp on pump gas. Street use only.)

It's a lot easier to point you in the direction of parts/set ups, otherwise it's just shots in the dark.
Motors a really all personal preference, you can have a group of guys sit there and argue till they are blue in the face, about what setup is better for the street, and what they think works and won't work.

Ex. Other say in a street car, they want it to be comfortable, quite, and it can go fast sometimes.
I like my street cars with solid mounts, solid cams, and I don't care how comfortable they are or what gas mileage they get.

[mudbillyredneck]

If your on a tight budget, and it's just a town pownder, I'd just use what you have and go from there.
Like I said up top, with a long rod you aren't going to need/want high rpm, your rotating assem will be heavier, but then will also produce more torque. Depending on what you want, you can get away without using forged anything. Just be easy on the timing. If you have the unilite distributor, make sure you have the ballast resistor for it also.

If you had a plan, example: (I have $1500 to spend, this is what I have already... And I want to make 400hp on pump gas. Street use only.)

It's a lot easier to point you in the direction of parts/set ups, otherwise it's just shots in the dark.
Motors a really all personal preference, you can have a group of guys sit there and argue till they are blue in the face, about what setup is better for the street, and what they think works and won't work.

Ex. Other say in a street car, they want it to be comfortable, quite, and it can go fast sometimes.
I like my street cars with solid mounts, solid cams, and I don't care how comfortable they are or what gas mileage they get.

  in a nut shell ... what he said 

[Jjay78]

the only difference between the 5.7 and 6 inch rod set up is where the wrist pin is set in the piston. the 6 inch rod has a minutely better deflection angle on the upward stroke when the piston is at bdc, however the 6 inch rod also places the wrist pin very close to your lower oil ring pack.. personally i  prefer the 5.7 inch rods because it gives a little more room and material around the rings on the piston.. your engine displacement is all in your bore and stroke not your rod length, not your head size or any thing else, the rods you pick have to match the pistons set up aka you can't use a piston designed for a 5.7 rod with a 6 rod because it can push your top ring out of the cylinder bore especially if you have had the block decked